Devil's Fire - The Hike!

No matter whether you call it "Little Finland," "Hobgoblins" or its real name Devil's Fire there is a hike involved. And, now that the BLM has finished spewing their closures - a substantial one! However, I've just met a person who may have taken the longest one yet! [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Devil's Fire: the HIKE]

Several weeks ago I received an email from an unknown fellow who said he had looked at the information I, and others, had posted and felt he just had to see Devil's Fire. Because it appeared that he had the idea he could just drive up to the site and "car camp," I responded and very bluntly pointed out the "error in his thinking."

Apparently, his trip was part of an already scheduled conference attendance in Vegas, so he dropped off his companion and set off for Devil's Fire anyway. Of course he found that his compact rent-a-car wouldn't go past Devil's Throat, so he attempted the "end run" around the Gold Butte Back Country Byway.

And, of course, his "lower-than-a-segway" car didn't fare any better down there. So, not to be disappointed, and for diversion, he climbed up the mountain near Gold Butte Ghost Town before driving back up to Devil's Throat.

This guy showed that he was more tenacious than "moss on a rock" and decided if his car wouldn't go with him, he would go alone... and began hiking! Down the Byway he trod into Mud Wash and then down it too.

He said he was following the GPS coordinate he had gotten off the web so, just before the Mud Wash turnoff to Lollipops, set off Northeast cross country. That route took him through the red sandstone cliffs which few have seen and through the "back door" into Devil's Fire from the North.

A journey of a thousand miles must begin with a single step.”
Lao Tzu

He had finally achieved what he had set out to do and was able to photograph the delicate erosion's before realizing that he now had to go retrieve his car.

He then climbed down into the wash at the Oasis. His GPS was pointing Southeast over the cliffs as the shortest way back to Devil's Throat... so he took it, and found himself coming down into Mud Wash, East of the Corral.

Following the "normal" way back out, he was at least able to see the Mud Wash Petroglyphs before finishing his nearly 10 mile round-trip hike back at the Throat.

After he was back home he wrote to thank me and send the link to his photos. After a bit of correspondence, it turns out that this adventure was his normal "modus operandi." He sent me several of his "hikes" to add to the "master map" I've got accumulating on my web site OffroadingHome.com.

When you follow his track on Google Earth you can see just how difficult a route he chose; but he said he enjoyed every bit of it. Unfortunately, you can see that he came within 10 feet of the Devil's Fire Petroglyphs without seeing them. Which goes to show just how difficult they are to find.

[To read his view of the hike you can view his blog page at Michael Blitch Blog]

Disport: Hale Centre Theater "Phantom"

For several years we have obtained season tickets to Salt Lake City's Hale Centre Theater - HTC to those in "the know." We had seats yesterday for the afternoon performance of their latest show.

Disport: To occupy oneself with amusement or diversion.”

From its early beginnings as the local mom and pop "Hale Family Theater," it went big time when it expanded to a multi-million dollar facility on the "West Side" a few years ago.

One the one hand, trying to succeed in theater in a culture, who equates the term "locally produced" with years and years of church "road shows," is no small feat. Their productions often "stun" patrons, who then exit the theater with looks of incredulity muttering "where did they get all these out of town professionals."

On the other hand, the professionalism of the HTC campus seems, in some ways, to perplex even its owners and employees as well. For example, they haven't, even at this late date, figured out how to provide customer service at the concession stand. The rotunda was crowded, they had already begun seating, and there were probably 20 of us forming an impromptu line in front of the counter where two gals seemed to be busying themselves gossiping with someone they knew.

A lady at the front of the line asked one of the girls when they would begin selling, as it didn't look like they had any intention of doing it soon, and was condescendingly told "soon." Well, "soon" came and went several times before they finally took the first order, then acted like they were "making it up" as they went along. Clearly they haven't figured out the "concession part" of the business in the many years I've been going there.

On the other hand, "where did they get all that talent?" Many incredible voices sang their hearts out - (and even the audio guy seemed to have achieved enlightenment in running the volume knob so as not to cause our ears to bleed.)

On the other hand, if YOU, like me, jumped to the conclusion that the production's music would have been written by Andrew Lloyd Webber; then, YOU, like me would have been very confused as the play began. This was "Phantom" (by Arthur Kopit and Maury Yeston) NOT "Phantom of the Opera" (by Andrew Lloyd Webber, Charles Hart and Richard Stilgoe).

The HTC playbill was almost identical to Webber's (perhaps deliberately so) but this was an "Operetta." I'm sure they surmised that if they would have publicized that fact they would have had empty seats.

If you never have,
You should.
These things are fun,
And fun is good.”
Dr. Suess

Now, I like musicals, understand operetta's and can even tolerate some opera's; but, unfortunately, these very professional quality singers were plying their craft on instantly forgettable songs. I couldn't even remember one melody as I left the theater.

On the other hand, the story-line you couldn't forget even if you tried — it was... odd! The antagonist in this version was not so much the "Phantom" but the farcically played, wannabe-diva, musical director's wife, Carlotta.

On the other hand, the fingernail-on-the-chalkboard, annoyingly-theatrical performance that she gave must have been good, for the audience applauded when the Phantom killed her.

And, on the last hand, as expected, their highest paid performer (the million dollar, hydraulic stage) not only worked flawlessly but was so overwhelmingly professional that it makes any HTC production worth seeing... operetta or not!

Will It Ever Stop Snowing?

I didn't always try to avoid snow. As a kid it was a novelty most enjoyable. Now, however it only serves as a detractant from life's real purpose - offroading!

One might think that after this many years I would have the rules of snowbirding down pat. So why is there so much snow out my door?

Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quiestest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.”
Pat Conroy

One does have to give the mountains credit for the show they are putting on — and the Salt Lake Valley air is uncharacteristically clean and clear; but, sigh, most of my buddy's are riding back down where we just left.

Charley's ride with the club was down Scanlon Ferry road again — they had a lot of novice riders this trip and couldn't do much exploring. The cacti were still not much in bloom.

And this weekend, Rod and his family went back down to Lime Kiln Canyon. They used the info on this blog to plan the journey and I'm awaiting their report. They promised to send photos.

Snowbirds - Where are we today?

What in the sam *%! have we done! I'm sitting here looking out the window of Herriman Snowbird Headquarters at at least 20 feet of snow outside our door!

The lease was up on Mesquite Snowbird Headquarters April 1st, so we packed up and trekked back to Utah. What a big mistake! We had to dodge between two storms and have been stuck inside while it has stormed nearly all week. So much for trying to miss this winter's snow.

It's snowing still," said Eeyore gloomily.
"So it is," (said rabbit).
"And freezing."
"Is it?"
"Yes," said Eeyore.
"However," he said, brightening up a little, "we haven't had an earthquake lately.”
A.A.Milne

The misery is made all the more poignant knowing that Charley and the club are going ATVing Saturday, down on Gold Butte. In fact he says they intend on riding every weekend in April. Hopefully they will send me their GPS trails.

One thing about snowbirds is that the biannual relocation gives you something to do. If you plan it right you can spend nearly 3 months unloading the boxes; then, you've got something to do for the next three months and reload them.

You see, once you've attained the rank of "snowbird" it's perpetual. The title holds no matter which side of winter you reside on. Oh, I know some change their name to "sunbirds"; but, us purists don't hold much with that foolishness... We know what we are!

[Charley said they have now taken the 96 mile ride. It was cool and the cacti still aren't blooming. Next weekend: "Three Corners" - Utah, Nevada, Arizona border.]

Ride 26 - Radio Crystal Mine

Last Saturday we took our traditional end-of-season ride down in the area around Historical Gold Butte. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 26 - Radio Crystal Mine]

We were quite disappointed, the last two weeks of March, that the succulents in the area hadn't chosen to bloom. Last year by mid March, almost overnight, the Joshua Trees began putting out their large, cream-colored blooms which filled the air with their fragrance. We took several rides through them, then the Mojave Yucca burst into bloom.

At the end of March last year, we took a final ride down to the Gold Butte area in order to try and find the "valley of the Mojave Mound" cactus which dad's friend had told us about. He and his wife had spent many years riding the area after they had moved to Overton.

We did find Radio Crystal Mine and several of the plants along the trail, but we didn't find the valley. This year we coerced Ralph to go back with us and see if being there would jog his memory of the valley's location. Charley even went with us.

We trailer'd down to Voight Well (next to Gold Butte) and headed down the trail. It turned out that dad and I had actually followed the correct trail last year. We stopped at Pleasant Valley and met two (I'll call them red necks) guys who hid their high powered rifles when they saw us coming.

We could see the beer bottles they had lined up in the doorway of the rusted out trailer that has been parked there for many years. They made small talk until we left and I called back that we would be riding down behind them so "don't shoot us." As soon as we left they resumed their play.

Radio Crystal Mine seemed to have increased in building numbers since last year. We rode up the trail behind the crusher and began finding many examples of Mojave Mound cactus although they were not ready to bloom.

Like all great travelers, I have seen more than I remember, and remember more than I have seen.”
Benjamin Disraeli

The trail seemed quite well preserved but soon led us into Pierson Gap which wasn't the direction we needed to go (we were still trying to find the valley.) We returned and rode up to Grapevine Spring, an area which was vaguely familiar from last year.

Around the spring were huge, "pudding-like" conglomerate rocks which were surface smooth. Charley pointed out that one above the spring looked like an elephants head with ears and trunk, and I found it's back-side right next to it with its tail and you-know-what. [Henceforth to be referred to as Elephant Rock.]

We continued on the trail until we arrived back at Scanlon Ferry road and still hadn't found the valley we were looking for. We rode back up to Gold Butte and on to Granite Spring where we had found the old mill stone used by the Chinese miners.

There was a lot to see and we found yet another passageway we want to explore, but not today.

One good thing: after the ride Ralph said that he had seen what he thought looked like the trail to the valley on the way back up Scanlon Ferry Road.

Well... maybe next year.

Ride 24B - The BLM and Petroglyph Trail

I needed to delay writing about the "second part" of this trail only partially because of the logical split in content. Another large part was in order to calm down enough to be coherent — for the BLMs misguided, heavy handed closures "stirs my soul." [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 24B - Petroglyph Trail]

As we have spoken about before, the mis-guided mayor of Mesquite joined forces with the fiends of gold butte in order to manipulate the odds of her proposed land-swap for airport reasons.

No matter that it would disenfanchise a significant majority of her citizens from enjoying the land that they bought houses in the area to see — you see "wilderness" type areas are prohibited areas to anyone who can't hike miles — like seniors.

Once the fiends get involved, however, the ball doesn't stop so easy — witness their paid lobbyists relationship with the decision makers of the BLM.

Even though the "land-swap" was defeated, the BLM contracted with a bunch of "institute" kids to descend upon the area this summer and closed access to most seniors from every petroglyph and rock formation in the area.

We've already reported on the closures in the middle Gold Butte area. We trailer'd to Whitney-Junction to ride the Petroglyph Trail and see what they've done there.

First Rock: This one site is pretty much the same as last year. The trail runs within walking distance and there is ample parking for a quick walk to the glyphs. There are "motor vehicles prohibited" all around the rock, but they were there last year.

Amazingly, I'm sure to the fiends, the glyphs are also the same as last year, no defacement, no damage, no harm — in spite of the fact that they are the most visited and most accessable of all the sites. Sort of removes credibility from their arguement about how us "nasty offroaders" are "destroying the desert."

Falling Man: One and a half miles down the trail is a new blockaid across the trail to Falling Man which is supposed to serve as a hiking trailhead. The lunacy begins here.

Over the years, in their infinite wisdom, they have moved the "parking lot" a little farther back several times. Each time a new parking lot forms such that now there are several and we are now starting a completely new one.

Now lets talk about the new quarter-mile hike they want us to do to get to the glyphs. Where do we do it? Not on the previous trail! The institute kids have thrown all the desert debri the could find onto it attempting to try and "hide" it from us! So where do we walk? — WE MAKE A NEW TRAIL! Pathetic!

Nevada Bear Poppy: A new addition to the trail is a 0.1 mile section lined with Rail-Road ties and cable purportedly so no-one will trod on the poppies. They claim it's a "pure strand"; but, in 4 years we've never seen anything there that we haven't seen all over the desert. [Maybe we should look better?]

We've now got post and cable fencing all across the desert ostensibly to prevent offroading in an area where there are no trails! No damage! No one has ever, it seems, ridden off the main trail. There is nothing to see or place of interest to go, unless they figure their closure of 21 Goats would spur the creation of an alternate trail unless they fabricated the "conservation story."

Twenty-One Goats: The idiocy continues at the wash to 21 Goats. There is a new flexible sign at the turnoff with deliberate confusing wording making you think you shouldn't drive on. In reality, it warns that the trail has been closed up further. When you drive up the wash you are soon stopped, about a half mile from the glyphs, in the middle of the wash.

That's the "new" trailhead, and it's barracaided with rail-road ties and cable on three sides! At least the institute kids did put a "gate" (of sorts) in the blockaid, unlike they have done everywhere else. However, I don't see how one is supposed to get a horse through the barrier (they are legal); but the BLM doesn't really care about that!

The brain is a wonderful organ. It starts working the moment you get up in the morning and does not stop until you get into... political... office.”
Robert Frost

Khota Circus: And finally, the biggest idiocy of them all, they have placed rock barracaids IN THE WASH going to the Khota Circus trailhead. A sign states that they are "restoring" the area! IT IS A WASH PEOPLE! The only restoration that now needs to be done is to get garbage bags and clean out all the crap the institute kids have tossed all over the wash!

What kind of a brain-dead idiot "restores" a wash?!! The trail into the glyphs has already been blocked off for years and required nearly a mile hike (one way) into the site. Now, they have added an additional 1 1/4 mile (one way) to it - making it a 4 1/2 mile hike round trip on foot!

If you continue straight past the wash and up the trail it will lead higher up on the mountain before it peters out. There you will be able to look back and see the wash which they are trying to "restore." It is rock, sand and hard-pan slick-rock - just what do they think they are going to restore? Absolutely nothing will grow back... ever, and rock is rock!

That's it. The Petroglyph Trail. What was once a magnificent destination for the burgeoning senior populations of Mesquite and Bunkerville, now turned into a playground for the elite hikers and rock climbers without even one consideration given to the impact on the current population.

I told you it stirred my soul!

Interpreting Petroglyphs: "Goats"

I have a friend who keeps telling me that "I ain't no stinkin' botanist" right before he gives me the answer to a botanical question.

So, keeping in mind that "I ain't no petroglyph expert" here are some things that I've learned about "goats," using a glyph from the outside face of the cliffs at Falling Man as an example (see photo); and, relying heavily on information from Native American LaVan Martineau in The Rocks Begin to Speak

[The book is still in print, new or used at Amazon. If you are going to purchase it, please consider doing so using the above link at no extra cost to you. A "thank you" to help keep this site going and the trails coming.]

Again, it's difficult to keep repeating information in print, so see previous posts for background. Specifically like: Logandale - Hungry Man.

The use of "goats" as substitutes for groups of people, began very early in the evolution of sign language and glyph writing, in order to depict the lateral motion which can't be shown well using human stick figures. These are actually nondescript body shapes using "signs" as appendages which make them "look" like various animals such as deer, goats, sheep, dogs etc..

Geology

Location: This glyph cluster is on a prominent, east facing, obvious, rock face which is observable by all and suggests it being a "trail marker" of sorts.

Natural Features: Prominent are the natural rock cracks and ledges which surround the three figures in a fairly flattened circle, with two "pointy" ends. The two top edges are formed by "ledges" in the rock. The right-bottom is formed by the cliff edge and the left-bottom, although now broken away, was also clearly a crack. Such a flattened, pointy (football-like) circle is the sign for "objectionable place," or "bad area" and may have caught the original author's eye as he climbed through the tunnel. This gives the "theme" of what the author was going to write.

Another crack is clear, running across the "circle" and pointing nearly northeastward. It makes a rock incorporation which points directly at the Bunkerville mountain range.

Glyphs

Technique: There are numbers of other glyphs on the rock face, with different amounts of patinization indicating different authors at different times. These, in this cluster, are pecked quite deeply and seem "newer" than others.

Symbols: The top goat is obviously facing in the direction of the natural crack (the gap toward Mesquite). Its body has the pointy-oblong shape of "objectionable area" and its tail is an upward, cup-shaped swoop. A shape which means fast, swift or with haste. The nose is elongated into a "pointing finger," indicating movement in the pointed to direction which is a little to the right of the mountain line, or through the Parashant area. It is the same size as the other "goats" (equal sized groups) and above, possibly meaning "superior, ahead, first or past tense." The two horns are foreshortened and in the position of "empty, nothing here, gone" but not arched over the back like they would be after a long completed journey. There is, however, another "boomerang-like" line touching the back meaning "distant, or far to go."

The middle goat also has the "objectionable area" body and is facing toward Arizona and Utah. It's "pointing" nose is directed toward the third goat and its tail has a sharply bent, "crochet hook," shape which means "near or close." Probably indicating at least a desire, if not intent, to stay near the other group. Amplifying this is the way it's front legs are upward making the body appear in the up-tilted, "forward-slash" angle meaning "halt or stopped." Its horns are however, also in the "gone" shape which may mean they stayed with the other group for awhile but had to leave. One of them also shows the "distant" wide angle bend.

The right goat has had, or is having, a struggle. Its body is pointed on one end as "objectionable place" but chopped off on the other as "cut short, stopped or end." Its "pointing" nose is directed back (toward Lost City), most likely from the direction they have already come. If its top horn had been in a true right-angle it would have meant "turning NOT aside or determined." The rounded corner negates the meaning into "turned aside or abandoning the attempt." Its second horn is the shape of "distance, or long," its tail is either the curve of "missed" or the right-angle of "determined or made up my mind." Incredibly, even one of the hind legs is perpendicular under the body meaning "blocked" and is half-way up the body probably meaning "already begun."

Putting it Together

I have been one acquainted with the night.”
Robert Frost

Other glyphs: There are numerous other glyphs in the area as if the group stayed in the area for a long time, or returned often. There is, of course, Falling Man and all the glyphs relating to that unfortunate incident.

Possible Story: The migrating group had come a fair distance to arrive at this spot (where they knew there was water). The incident with the "bad" man left at least a portion of the group so debilitated that they couldn't go on, even though it meant they had to endure life-threatening summer heat, privation and possible death. Even their intent to go back was prevented or halted. A second portion attempted to stay near to the unfortunate group until it was either impossible or unnecessary and they finally "were gone." A third group went on ahead, possibly to get crops planted, obtain help or find sustenance.

This small cluster of glyphs contains a lot of information and is consistent with the story as a whole contained on other glyphs in the area. It tells of choices required during a terrible dilemma which would probably haunt them twice a year as they passed this way going back and forth.

Why Not Learn More

The book "The Rocks Begin To Speak" is probably the landmark text which opened this field of study to large numbers of people, and it is still in print, new or used at Amazon. Why not make your trips to the "Glyphs of Gold Butte" more meaningful by learning a few of the "meanings" of the glyphs you see? If you are going to purchase it, please consider doing so using the links on this page. There will be no extra cost to you, but a portion will go to keeping this site going and the trails coming.

Gastronomy: Eureka Seafood Buffet

We spent a "downtime" day beginning to put things back in boxes and close out Snowbird Headquarters.

Already getting nostalgic, we had to try one last "experience" at the Eureka hotel and casino's Friday night seafood buffet.

I think I've mentioned before that it is one of only two eating experiences in all of Mesquite which is worth the effort and doesn't make you sick. The other being Los Lupes Mexican restaurant.

The best travel quote of all time:
“If you don't knock it off, we'll turn this car around.”
Mom & Dad

Over the course of years we have tried them all. And, except for a couple of notable disgusting venues which we cannot forget, even in our sleep, we pretty much re-try them anew each year. We claim it is to give them another chance because they may have changed for the better; but, it's more likely that it's because snowbirds have trouble remembering from one year to the next.

Unfortunately for the Eureka, the recommendation does NOT extend to any other day of the week! It's terrible those days! On Friday's, however, the place draws the crowds like an "8 inch, split-tail, gold Rapalla" lure. You can't even get into the place!

Like the resourceful snowbirds that we are, however, we show them — we're there by 4pm!!! There's already a bit of a line, but nowhere near like what those poor souls who don't get hungry until the 6pm dinner-hour get for their trouble.

I'm told that they serve several thousand of the meals each month and that most of the population of St. George comes down for the lobster tails. That keeps the balance of trade more "balanced" because all the rest of the week Mesquite goes to St. George for dinner.

Ride 25 - Toquop Virgin Beach

Oooh, this one was a quickie! In our continual quest to "get down to the river" we hadn't ridden Toquop Wash downward... so we did!   [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 25 - Toquop Virgin Beach]

I don't think what we actually saw down at the river would be called a "beach" — but it was at least the "edge" of the river.

You have brains in your head.
You have feet in your shoes.
You can steer yourself in any direction you choose.
You're on your own.
And you know what you know.
You are the guy who'll decide where to go.”
Dr. Seuss

The spring floods must have been bad around here. When we arrived they were working on putting back together the Riverside bridge which had all but washed out. Downstream, where we were, they were busy trying to "restore" and/or "reclaim" the area by replanting "mystery trees" inside plastic road cones.

The sound of the river was still there, however, and there's just something about eating lunch on the banks of a river. In our case, licorice nibs had to suffice.

We went back up the wash toward the I-15 bridge and explored several other trails to the west before returning to the trailer. A good ride for an afternoon which could be extended if you wanted to spend more time.

Ride 24A - Newspaper Rock Hike

This is another ride which needs to be split into two, not so much for distance as for things covered. The main goal was to hike to Newspaper Rock to replace photos which didn't turn out last year.   [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 24A - Newspaper Rock Hike]

A few weeks ago I blogged about a hike I took at Falling Man and about finding Newspaper rock 1. You see, this area contains many clusters of glyphs which have been poorly described and given confusing sets of names.

Much of the confusion is intentionally inflicted on us from "the WEB," where at least two authors I know of, try to obfuscate the truth under the name of cutting down the riff-raff visitors.

Some of these authors have only visited the area once or twice but have published "lookey what I found" photos under several names. One such "web-only" name is "Whitney-Hartman." That would be the name for this entire area; but, the people who live here only know this as "Falling Man." (Remember however only one tiny glyph is actually the "falling man.")

Another such confusing name is "Newspaper Rock" with several sets of directions on how to find it. There are actually two large panels which people call "Newspaper Rock." Both require bouldering around the cliffs and rocks, both are very large wall panels and both tell a coherent story which has been interpreted.

Verl Frehner, a local educator, has studied these glyphs extensively for many years and, using LaVan Martineau's work (The Rocks Begin to Speak) as a guide, attempted to decipher the two stories (as much as anyone currently living can.)

While the rock I spoke about in my previous post seems to be an account of how the group of native Americans came to be in the area, the panel on this hike, Frehner believes, is about a terrible incident which killed many of the tribe and caused most others significant hardship.

Dad and I visited with Verl last year and purchased his new book. [Both accounts are in print and available in Mesquite from Mr. Frehner or the local museum. I will probably explain some of them in a future post.]

The landmark is the newly created BLM blockade at the Falling Man trailhead. Ride past that a few hundred feet to another "wide spot" in the trail with an "in restoration" sign and a trail leading into the wash. That will be the hike trailhead.

Follow the trail and the wash south about 0.2 mi until it joins another wash going east. Watch carefully for washed out areas in the rocks which act as cistern's holding rain water.

Two roads diverged in a wood and I - I took the one less traveled by.”
Robert Frost

About 0.1 mile further the wash divides into two and there are petroglyphs in either direction. The main panel of Newspaper Rock (lower) is to the right, up another 0.1 mile. Watching carefully you can find several "marker glyphs" on rocks which point the knowing wanderer toward the main glyphs and waterholes.

Look up on the farthest cliffs (east) to see glyph clusters on several levels and surfaces. Just for bearings, although not accessible from this level, Newspaper Rock (upper) is up on the top bluff nearly directly behind these glyphs. And, Falling Man is behind that (to the northwest).

Bouldering up the wash to the right (east) of these glyphs there is an undercut which obviously has been used as a shelter. I did find one route which, to a more limber and skilled climber than I, might lead up to the upper bluff described in the previous Falling Man hike post.

Additionally, if you had taken the left-hand wash previously mentioned, you would not only have seen another small set of glyphs, but would have seen another climbing challenge at the far end which would lead eventually to the Falling Man trail area.

It's not a long hike but feels a bit longer due to all the bouldering and uneasy terrain you need to cross. However, taking the time has its rewards in finding glyphs and treasures each time you go.

Ride 23 - Clives Landing to Virgin River

HEY... we finally made it to the river! OK, we were aiming for the lake, but what the hey! [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 23 - Clives to "lake"]

This is our last week here at snowbird headquarters so we decided to take a quick ride down to see the lake (Mead) which we haven't seen since last year and which seems to have come up a bit.

We trailered to Clives Landing trailhead before realizing that we needed to go back to get the keys to the rig! Fortunately mom was "willing" to meet me half way and it didn't delay us too much.

At the 112 - 113 fork we turned to the right, down toward the Virgin River "Landing" - at least that what the sign says. As it turns out there is no landing, just post and cable blocks to the end of the trail in some willow flat-lands.

It also said "street legal vehicles only" but the sign is NOT at the Lake Mead NRA border, and ATVs are legal on the adjacent BLM land.

We went back around and took the road to Fisherman's Cove. It was rougher and down a wash but got a bit closer to the lake.

May all your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view, where something strange and more beautiful and more full of wonder than your deepest dreams waits for you.”
Edward Abbey

The trail sort of ended in a deep, washed-out drop-off; so, we considered it a hiking trailhead and had only walked about 300 yards down the wash before we stumbled upon the real, live Virgin River.

The wildflowers still haven't bloomed out yet, but there were some willow-looking things with juniper type leaves just barely starting to sprout some lilac-looking violet flowers. It should be beautiful and fragrant next week.

We ate lunch on the river bank, which seemed fairly brisk, before deciding it was late enough that we had better turn back home.

Extra 9 - North Valley With Friends

North Valley is a ride that I never get tired of — in spite of the "skydive" over the cliff on my 2-wheel drive rig at Aztec formation rock. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Extra 9 - North Valley]

The funny thing about snowbirds is that once we are here, we want all of our friends to be here too. I've been begging friends to come "share the wealth" for five months now and finally I wore them down.

This weekend not only the Koford's but the DeGroot's came down as well. We only had the afternoon, so the best ride to take from Snowbird Headquarters was North Valley.

It seemed as though the kids were in "seventh heaven" climbing the tanks, hiking the hills, smelling the cactus! (Of course they were careful to watch out for the Pumas.)

I've never ridden with a six-seater before but they do the trails with the greatest of ease — and make a great way to extend the experience to the whole family.

Of course we stopped at Keyhole Rock and saw Ray's Cactus Garden and the Petrodroppings before we rode over to the Aztec Rock cliff. The six-seater went down first and watched from below as I came down with my lowly 2-wheel drive Kodiak.

Frankly, I was too busy to be watching the looks on their faces as I was skydiving down the cliff; but, when I got to the bottom they decided that if it was going to be like that they didn't want their daughter to do it alone.

Rod hiked back up and rode down with his daughter, which turned out to be unnecessary. Neither of their two 4-wheel drive Kodiak's had any trouble at all.

The knack of learning how to fly is to learn how to throw yourself at the ground and miss.”
Douglas Adams

The best way to describe what it feels like on my rig is sort of like snow-skiing. There is no low gear, and no traction so the most you can hope for is to keep it a controlled fall down the mountainside just hoping the next mogul doesn't flip you over.

Unfortunately, none of the cacti or yucca's are in bloom yet, and with the noise we were making we didn't see any of the Roadrunners.

Once out of the valley it was getting late so we headed back across East Bunkerville Flats to Powerline and back to the trailers.

To cap it off we went to the only good Mexican restaurant in town for dinner — Los Lupes, and finished the day like only good friends know how to do.

It was great to have them down here and I've already started working on them for next year — there is sooo much more to see! I just hope I can somehow make it so they don't have to spend their lifetime, like I finally have, learning that nobody ever says, when they are old, "I just wish I had spent more time working!"

Ride 22B - Zion's Back Door

There is a "backdoor" to Zion's National Park, and we found it today. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 22B - Zion's Backdoor]

The second part of the day in the truck we spent traveling from St. George to Hurricane and then to Apple Valley. We stopped at the Conoco in Apple Valley (the only store) to ask for directions to the interconnect road between Ut-59 and Ut-9. The high school gal running the store had no clue but referred dad to an "old timer" regular customer and he knew right off — "go down the road a bit and turn left at main."

We are all travelers in the wilderness of this world, and the best we can find in our travels is an honest friend.”
Robert Louis Stevenson

It turns out that this was the same store which had short-changed dad out of a $50 bill a few months back. And incredibly, dad was riding in the area last month with a friend who told him about an attempted scam on him too, at the same store!

The boy behind the counter had deliberately played dumb. He placed Ralph's ten inside the till before making change, looked puzzled and asked if Ralph had an additional "one," as if it would be easier to then give correct change. Ralph told him to just take it out of the ten. Then the boy gave him the wrong change three times, before stating that "you didn't give me a ten."

Ralph told him directly that he did so, and instructed him exactly how much change he had coming. AMAZINGLY — this is the only store I have ever seen where absolutely nothing in the store is labeled for price! If you are deliberately going to scam someone, how better to do it than to have nothing, anywhere, marked for price.

The gal seemed astonished that I would even ask for prices, and annoyed that I would ask her to go "scan" the items so she could tell me how much they were. Everything that I wanted to buy was twice to three hundred percent higher than in St. George!!

When dad saw me put the items down and refuse to purchase them, that was when he told me the story of his $50 and ralphs $10. WHAT A SCAM! And I see that someone has uploaded a photo of the store on Google Earth's Panaramio for everyone to see!

The road turned out to be exactly where the old timer said it would be and took us up over the ridge and down into Rockbridge. What a view! What a road!

The Google Earth file available from the link above contains three photos of the back side of Zion NP. Two are panorama's and they still don't do it justice. Best take the ride to see for yourself — but don't take your car!

The ground is a little bit red clay, which holds memory of past rainstorms in the form of deep ruts where crazy people have tried to slam their way up the road spinning and throwing mud. Now they are dry and hard as rock.

The return trip through Laverkin and Hurricane is relaxing and you are quickly back on the freeway going through St. George.

Ride 22A - Ivin's Petroglyphs

We took this ride in the truck today and ended up in two different areas. The first part explored the Native American cemetery near Gunlock and the petroglyphs near Ivin's. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 22A - Ivins Petroglyphs]

We had seen the petroglyphs at Gunlock a couple of days ago but were too exhausted from the hike to tackle these. So "we have returned."

Dad said for 60 years he had wanted to stop and see the Native American cemetery on US-91 at the Gunlock turnoff — so we did. It was a good experience. It seemed as though many interred there had been proud to serve their country.

I was also pleasantly surprised to learn that it was the final resting place of LaVan Martineau the author of The Rocks Begin to Speak, an indispensable book for understanding petroglyphs. He was affiliated with the Paiute's and would have been someone I would have liked to walk with on a quiet stroll through the glyphs.

About 4.2 miles east on US-91 from the cemetery is a large, unmarked, rock/wrought iron gate on the south. This leads to "anazazi trailhead" the hike into archeological digs and petroglyhps.

The directions we were given were a bit confusing and misleading so we didn't accomplish what we had intended; but, what we saw was fairly extensive.

The trail leading away from the trailhead is well prepped and marked. It winds through the desert and ends up at the petroglyphs; but, it is 3.5 miles long. Shortly after the first turn to the right there is a dirt trail to the right (south) which leads toward the basalt rocks on the cliff. This trail is quite a bit more difficult (steep) but shorter.

I turned onto the trail less traveled and shortly found a set of glyphs on the right. However, much hunting in the surrounding cliff was fruitless. From there the trail continues upward to a tall chain-link fence then turns southeast.

Finally, where the fence joins to the cliff there is a small view point over the valleys on both sides and a much steeper trail continuing up the hill. that's the way you've got to go if you want to see the glyphs.

Keep going and you will run across a dig site of a Puebloean structure of unknown use. The sign whines that the area was "ruined" by ATVers, and it may have been, but their not-so-veiled implication was that it was "unauthorized." [The area only recently was "closed" but before that riding was NOT prohibited. I wonder if we all should stop walking or riding around everywhere for fear of future finding that someone else might have been there once.]

The site is really quite well marked and protected now. The BYU people have done a good, if not extensive, job. Continuing along the cliffs of black rocks you will come to some glyphs. Turn around and you will see more, and more, and more. There are a few areas where you can safely, with difficulty, climb down a ways and see a few more; but, most are well viewed from the top.

Education is hanging around until you've caught on.”
Robert Frost

That's the hike I took and it was well worth the exhausting effort. However, my feeling sorry for myself about how poor a shape and old I am was ameliorated a bit by watching a bunch of high-school boys trudge up the hill. Most had taken their shirts off and were "feelin' the burn." They seemed to welcome the chance to rest while their leaders got me to explain what I knew about the glyphs.

I had intended to go back down the main trail but decided it was TOO long and down was sure to be easier than up. Besides, part B of our ride was awaitin'.

Ride 21 - Toquop Petroglyphs

We found a way of getting up Toquop Wash without needing to ride up and over Flat Top Mesa! [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 21 - Toquop Wash]

That's a good thing because that Mesa is tall, the road is steep, and you take your life in your hands four times every ride stopping on the 45 degree incline to open two gates each direction.

The only problem is that you may tick off some right-lane freeway traffic as you slow and turn off onto the service road. There is a galvanized fence which opens onto a gravel staging area for the city (or someone); but, a nice road leads down into the wash.

We had two goals: To get down to the Virgin River (seems to be annoyingly difficult to accomplish), and I wanted to go visit the best cactus area around here. There is almost every kind of cactus we see in this area, right in one place — and they are all extremely healthy.

The sandy wash is a good ride — smooth and windey. Then you turn westward and it become a high-frequency washboard which nearly shakes the begeeburs out of you while it loosens all your fillings.

You know you're almost there when you cross under the power lines and you hear crackling in the air all around you. Shortly after the lines you need to turn left (southwest) on the "private road", drop down into the wash and back up the other side. That's when the plants begin too look like they've all been "fertilized and watered."

You are on the right road when you see the prep station which gathered climate related data for the proposed power plant. Then when you get close to the mountains you need to turn right (northwest) up along the foothills. You will pass old mines, springs and eventually come to two crumbling, rock cabins.

The rumor was this was where the mayor of Vegas brought his girlfriends in the old days, but dad says that they were built nearly exactly like the CCC cabins in Utah (only they were made of local logs while these were made of local flagstone). There are kitchens built on the back accessible from both the outside and the cabin, and a cement "autograph" is dated 1942 — the correct time-frame.

While leaving, dad told me later that I had spooked a large owl which was perched in a large bush. It flew up and nearly hit dad on his bike. I hadn't seen a thing.

The stock tank at Gourd Spring had been filled on one side with dirt. The water flow has diminished and it was full of moss — not a pretty sight. No wonder why goldfish don't live there!

Continuing north and coming to the wash, this time I noticed one of those BLM "behave yourselves" signs which are usually a dead give away that there is something they would rather not have you see.

So, we went back down into the wash and found some very unique rock formations and petroglyphs. I've mentioned about "petrodroppings" before in relation to North Valley at Keyhole Rock. These are also the petrified ooze from the bottom of a watercourse adherent to a base rock, but this was a more colorful brown-ocre AND had been polished to a high sheen by another flat rock as it slid past it.

It truly looked as though someone had taken a rock polisher to it then layered it with lacquer. The Toquop Wash Petroglyphs were elevated on a rock in the wash and may deserve explanation in a later post.

Most of my treasured memories of travel are recollections of sitting.”
Robert Thomas Allen

Rounding the top (at Abe Spring) and back down to the power lines was uneventful except to say that dad (a former farmer) noticed that nearly all the cows were walking like they had sore feet. You try and walk around on that rock to see what it feels like. Even the river rocks in the wash were like walking on lava clinkers... sharp!

It was a verry long ride for us, and a difficult long step back up into the truck.