I feel a bit bad that it's taken me this long to post one of the nicest rides we took during last years riding season: The Davidson Graves-Toquop Gap Loop.
It was one of the few rides that dad felt he could go on, not too long, not too far away, of historical interest and not too bumpy.
We trailered to one of the common trailheads around Mesquite – the East Mesa Interchange Trailhead (commonly called "the truck stop" by locals). That's the easiest and most convenient access point to the Mormon Mountains from Mesquite. There are several graded dirt roads, which that year had been maintained for the use of the power line they were putting in.
It only has one problem, which will become evident as the tale unfolds, and that is: there isn't but one or two east-west trails crossing the whole mesa and if you miss one of them it's a long way to the other.
To begin, it's almost a straight shot north to the East Mormon Mountains. The gap the trail runs through is formed under Davidson Peak which is named after the ill fated family whose graves solemnly attest to the struggles of the early settlers of this land and where we will make a stop.
It's that time of year again – the Joshua Tree's are blooming in the Mojave Desert. Only this year it's the rare full out effort!
Our first year of snowbirding in Mesquite, SIX years ago, we were treated to the magnificent splendor of riding through our newly discovered old growth Joshua Tree forest in North Valley a couple of weeks before we re-migrated back up north for the summer. If you haven't been there, the trees are all above your head in a canopy and are all hundreds of years old as evidenced by their extensive branching.
The crisp protected valley's air was so sweet with fragrance you could taste it on your lips. We'd never seen such a site before and were eagerly awaiting the site again the next year. Unfortunately, it was not to happen.
Charlie and I needed some space to clear our heads in the fall but haden't quite gotten our "oomph" levels up to where loading and unloading and trailering our ATVs interested us yet.
So, where to ride when you're completely surrounded by dirt, if you can get to it? Most everywhere close we've already been to many times. Where could we go that we didn't need to trailer, we wouldn't mind seeing again and we would stand a high probablility of seeing something we hadn't seen before?
For us, this season, it was up into the Tule Desert (pronounced too-lee). Yes, if we weren't going to trailer we needed to start the ride with the standard (and at least comparitively speaking: "tiresome") ride up and over Flat Top Mesa, and yes, we then had the "long and arduous" washbords of Toquop Wash; but this is offroading we're talking about!
A bit stir-crazy from all the rain and snow, Gordon and I took our rigs up to Toquop Wash for the first time this season. There are many nice things to see up the wash, and several areas which are quite challanging; but, as rides go, much of is a bit nondescript so sort of falls down the priority list a bit.
Beginning up at the water-tank road trailhead, will take you to Toquop by a trip up and over Flat Top Mesa. You'll need to negotiate opening and closing heavy gates on an incline on both sides of the Mesa; so, unless the Mesa is an actual destination, most riders prefer a little easier access to the wash.
Probably one of the easiest ATV, SUV trailheads to get to in Mesquite is up the Mesquite Heights Road, most know it as the "road to the dump." There is quite a large staging area for the trailers of offroad vehicles just to the left before you arrive at the land-fill, a testament to its popularity and frequency of use.
Most of the use is from all forms of carry-alls of motorcycle's. The sandy wash banks and trails make for favored two-wheeled riding and we have never failed to see a group of cyclists whenever we have been there ourselves. This day was no exception, there were five in a "sleeper-van" who were spending the day offroad down from St. George. Actually, they were back at their trailer taking a "break" when we arrived.
It had been one of the ubiquitous rainy days this season and quite chilly; when, the sun coming out of the clouds triggered one of our genetic responses to "swim upstream" and get out in the air. Late in the day, there is really only one place to go offroad from Mesquite and that's North Flats.
With the addition of the "3-Corners Western Route" trail, it now seems like this is the second sought after destination (right after Devil's Fire) as far as downloads and submissions are concerned. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Nevada Trails Master Map]
From the statistics, almost as many readers search and browse to the various three-corners tracks as do to the Devil's Fire map files.
For some reason it has also become a frequent destination of our own personal rides when we are snowbirding down that way. Perhaps it is due to the several directions one can get to it.
Trailheads can begin along old Route 95 just north of Beaver Dam, or along Lytle Ranch Road. We've also found ourselves at Three-Corners when we've ridden from the top of Mesquite Heights Road.
Additionally, just about any trail which takes you to Powerline Road over Flat Top Mesa or Lone Mesa or Toquop Wash can also get you to Three-Corners. As do trails coming from the north around Beaver Dam Wash.
Just about the only direction we haven't already taken has been from the far southwest –and now this trail begins from the Carp-Elgin exit off of I-15!
It's not that pretty – at least not by Gold Butte standards – but there isn't anywhere more historic or poignant in the whole area than a trip up toward Davidson Peak. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 27 - Davidson Family Graves. This map also contains the old wagon trails previously posted.]
On a short day where we just didn't want to haul the trailer very far, Gordon and I took the ride and were still back in time for the block party!
We staged at the Toquop wash trailhead just around the corner from the south exit to Mesquite. The first draw was toward the river which looked high from the recent rains.
Then north all the while looking for a passage up to the mesa on the west so we could avoid that "hateful"…
The Kokopelli ATV club master file has just been updated to include their latest ride: The Mesquite to Overton For Lunch Loop. A nifty trip the group took to show that it could be done. In fact there were several trails that have been added as it has been awhile since it was updated. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Kokopelli ATV Club Master Map]
Hugh led the group along trails which most seldom remember. That's too bad because it is a ride which is very close to Mesquite (hence can be done without "trailoring") and has the typical amount of scenic value which we've come to expect… and even more than one might think.
And actually, it comes with an added benefit — LUNCH! The loop allows for a ride into the ATV friendly town of Overton where you can shop, patronize the filling stations and restrooms as well as have a meal at a well known diner. [Follow the track! We'll make it a geocache with benefits!]
Our Utah friends decided to stay for a second ride around the area but couldn't get as early a start as the day before. Where to go? The "Where Am I Now" Loop![For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 18: "Where Am I" Loop ]
At least that's my story and I'm stickin' to it. The ride is one you can take from Mesquite in a "strong" half-day and crosses…
If you have a FULL day to spend in the outdoors off-road you could take the ride Gordon and I took into the "Half-Way" and "Toquop" washes near Mesquite Nevada. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Half-way and Toquop Wash Loop]
Gordon likes to get started real early, me... not so much; but, by the time we were done with the ATV ride, both of us were satisfied and more than usually exhausted.
The adventure started at the I-15 truck stop trailhead in Half-Way Wash just southwest of Mesquite. We took the RZR north toward the gap in East Mormon Mountain, near Davidson Peak, and the radio tower. It is an area landmark which nearly everyone talks about but I had never seen.
Believe it or not, that's what it's called — Initial Mesa! I rode with the Mesquite Kokopelli ATV club on their Saturday ride. We were to find the "real" border between Utah-Arizona-Nevada. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Initial and Lone Mesas]
Every time we visit the "3-Corners" monument we spend much of our time palavering about why the monument is there, why Google shows a jog in the Nevada border that doesn't seem to be on the official Nevada State Map, and where (if not here) is the "REAL" state border connections.
The ride left from the Upper Hwy-95 Trailhead and was led by Hugh who took us across the desert to the west until we ran into …
Charley and I took this interesting ride somewhat as a "proof of concept" that one could ride directly from the south side of Mesquite into the far north Utah-Nevada-Arizona riding area (around 3-Corners). [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Mesquite to 3-Corners]
I rode from the south side of Mesquite, near Snowbird Headquarters; along 2nd South; up Grapevine; across Mesquite, the brige and Pioneer; On Greens Way to Hardy Way and onto Mesquite Heights (landfill road) to meet Charley.
After our pleasant ride to the 3-corners area a few days ago, several of us wanted to give the benefit of the doubt to the potential toe-rags who removed the geo-cache and flag and see if they might have merely "moved it" to the "true" 3-corners. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 10: 3-Corners Explore]
If any of you have zoomed in to a close up of Google Earth (where Utah, Nevada and Arizona are supposed to meet) you find that they don't! I can honestly say that I have never noticed a tiny bump-out glitch along the Nevada maps east side – but it's there plain as day on Google Earth.
Now why would people think that Utah, Nevada and Arizona all meet in one place? Well it's because…
This is a great ride over widely-varied and historic terrain and is both a destination and scenic type of trail. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 9: 3-Corners/Lytle Loop]
BJ and I trailered up to the
Mormon Wagon Road Trailhead , Utah USA
[37.010423, -113.912540]
on Old Highway-91 in Utah. We got a bit later start than we usually do but…
On a Sunday afternoon out for a "little" drive we decided to take a look at where the Old Spanish Trail runs along the freeway for a ways. Going West on I-15 from Mesquite we exited at the first truck stop and we were there. [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 07: Whitmore Mine Trail]
There is an exit out the fence onto a dirt road which has all the appropriate signs but it sure looks like an ordinary dirt road to me. It runs along the freeway as sort of a "frontage road" for awhile then takes off across the desert every which way.
The one heading toward Mormon Mountains looked so wide and inviting that we decided to see how far we could get...
This ride has almost become the "search for the Northwest Passage" for us. We have friends in Beaver Dam Arizona and keep thinking that "there just has to be a way to get there from here." [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Northeast Flats]
Unfortunately, there are a LOT of 2-wheel drive eating chasms between here and there and we have never made it despite three tries.
The Mesa Boulevard trailhead is convenient to ride the area (just at the top of Mesa Boulevard) and you are soon down in the flats next to the freeway. The sandy trail rides parallel
Although I kinda liked the look of the "Offroading Home" web site, it's hard to ignore the nagging forever. I've been told that the pages looked sorta… spartan, and needed a bit more… oomph. Enter graphics and color and animation.
Most of you know, I just dabble at web programming. So, for me, it's been a bit daunting but an opportunity to learn something new.
And, it didn't turn out too bad. See the new look for yourself — Offroading Home(version 2). Lots more color and a bit more "offroadsey" look. Whadaya think? Please leave a comment.
I mentioned, in a previous post about the Toquop Wash Petroglyphs dad and I found on an ATV ride near Mesquite Nevada, that I would eventually post a bit about their interpretation. Today is the time.
[For a free Google Earth file of the route we took, click on this link to open it in Google Earth: Ride 21 - Toquop Wash]
Enlarge the photo, by clicking on it, so you can see it a bit better. The "petrodroppings" I previously talked about are obvious, a term which graphically describes the "petrified lake bottom ooze" bonded to the underlying rock. This outcropping however is particularly unique, in that after it had been laid down, and after it had been pressurized into petrification, it was cracked and upturned across a fault such that it was actually polished!
Unlike the "petrodroppings" over in North Valley, these are a beautiful ochre-brown. Both factors would have definitely caught the eye of any passing Early-Americans and made it ideal for rock writing.
Breakthroughs in understanding these early writings was described by Native American author and cryptologist LaVan Martineau in his book The Rocks Begin to Speak.
He described that these types of writings cannot be clearly understood from a photograph alone, even though you may know the meanings of specific symbols. "They cannot be translated," he says, "anywhere but at the site itself since much of its meaning depends upon adjacent geography."
Geology
Location: The rock is a prominent outcropping, jutting into a major desert wash which runs Eastward then South into the Virgin River — A major route through the mountains and down to the water.
The "petrodroppings" are unlike the normal "desert varnish" which aboriginals usually used for rock writing. They are deceptively VERY hard and tenaciously adherent to the underlying rock. Chipping on its surface would definitely be a long term undertaking.
Natural Features: The glyphs are facing directly down the wash, are directly below a cliff from which flows intermittent water during rainstorms, are adjacent to some hidden cisterns and are where the "trail" crosses the "wash."
I'm not a teacher, but an awakener.” Robert Frost
Both glyphs are placed immediately adjacent, and in fact touching, a natural crack which most likely represents a travel line — A term known as "Rock Incorporation." The line actually runs north-south on the rock, mirroring the real trail along the mountain range toward the river and joins another crack running northeast into Utah (i.e. the Virgin River).
Glyphs
Technique: All of the lines seem broader than what we normally see (which usually has the meaning of "something there," "encumbered" or, occasionally, "bad"); however, that may just be an artifact of the difficulty of chipping.
Their positioning with one lower than the other suggests that it was "inferior" or "last" in what was being discussed — i.e. travel. Therefore the author may have been traveling right to left.
Symbols: The lower-left glyph is nearly a circle, although parts of its lower edge have been lost. The circle shape usually means "holding" similar to the arm motions of the same shape in sign language. However, it is a bit pointed on one side which extends the meaning into "end" or "ended."
The upper-right glyph is an upside down "U" which represents "rock." The enclosing travel line at the bottom extends to "hill," "mound," "heap," or "mountain" due to its steep shape.
The two straight lines on the top can have a couple of meanings. The sign language for "seeing" or "looking at" is two fingers of an otherwise closed hand pointing at what is being seen from in front of the eyes. In other words, this mountain (or hill) can be seen from the East (i.e. up the river toward Utah).
The doubled lines also mean "nothing there," or "gone from." When they are attached to something it means "gone from" that object or "empty."
Putting it Together
Other glyphs: There doesn't appear to be any other glyphs associated with this cluster; however, the "petrodroppings" are worn and defaced. There certainly is enough "character" in the rock that other "rock incorporation's" may spring to mind should one have the time to "sit and ponder." There is another glyph in the area which describes a waterfall with cisterns which appears during a rain — I'll describe them in another post.
Possible Story: This seems to be a "travel story" or "map" (the absence of glyphs representing people); however, glyphs nearly always have a purpose because they are difficult to create. The mountain can be seen from a distance and following the trail will lead to journey's end, or place to stay for awhile.
Why Not Learn More
The book "The Rocks Begin To Speak" is probably the landmark text which opened this field of study to large numbers of people, and it is still in print, new or used at Amazon.
Consider how much more meaningful your trips to the "Glyphs of Gold Butte" would be if you knew the "meanings" of a few of the glyphs you saw.
If you decide to purchase the book, let me suggest that you please use the links on this page. There is absolutely no extra cost to you, however a portion will go to keeping this site going and the trails coming.
Oooh, this one was a quickie! In our continual quest to "get down to the river" we hadn't ridden Toquop Wash downward... so we did! [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 25 - Toquop Virgin Beach]
I don't think what we actually saw down at the river would be called a "beach" — but it was at least the "edge" of the river.
You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself in any direction you choose. You're on your own. And you know what you know. You are the guy who'll decide where to go.” Dr. Seuss
The spring floods must have been bad around here. When we arrived they were working on putting back together the Riverside bridge which had all but washed out. Downstream, where we were, they were busy trying to "restore" and/or "reclaim" the area by replanting "mystery trees" inside plastic road cones.
The sound of the river was still there, however, and there's just something about eating lunch on the banks of a river. In our case, licorice nibs had to suffice.
We went back up the wash toward the I-15 bridge and explored several other trails to the west before returning to the trailer. A good ride for an afternoon which could be extended if you wanted to spend more time.
We found a way of getting up Toquop Wash without needing to ride up and over Flat Top Mesa! [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 21 - Toquop Wash]
That's a good thing because that Mesa is tall, the road is steep, and you take your life in your hands four times every ride stopping on the 45 degree incline to open two gates each direction.
The only problem is that you may tick off some right-lane freeway traffic as you slow and turn off onto the service road. There is a galvanized fence which opens onto a gravel staging area for the city (or someone); but, a nice road leads down into the wash.
We had two goals: To get down to the Virgin River (seems to be annoyingly difficult to accomplish), and I wanted to go visit the best cactus area around here. There is almost every kind of cactus we see in this area, right in one place — and they are all extremely healthy.
The sandy wash is a good ride — smooth and windey. Then you turn westward and it become a high-frequency washboard which nearly shakes the begeeburs out of you while it loosens all your fillings.
You know you're almost there when you cross under the power lines and you hear crackling in the air all around you. Shortly after the lines you need to turn left (southwest) on the "private road", drop down into the wash and back up the other side. That's when the plants begin too look like they've all been "fertilized and watered."
You are on the right road when you see the prep station which gathered climate related data for the proposed power plant. Then when you get close to the mountains you need to turn right (northwest) up along the foothills. You will pass old mines, springs and eventually come to two crumbling, rock cabins.
The rumor was this was where the mayor of Vegas brought his girlfriends in the old days, but dad says that they were built nearly exactly like the CCC cabins in Utah (only they were made of local logs while these were made of local flagstone). There are kitchens built on the back accessible from both the outside and the cabin, and a cement "autograph" is dated 1942 — the correct time-frame.
While leaving, dad told me later that I had spooked a large owl which was perched in a large bush. It flew up and nearly hit dad on his bike. I hadn't seen a thing.
The stock tank at Gourd Spring had been filled on one side with dirt. The water flow has diminished and it was full of moss — not a pretty sight. No wonder why goldfish don't live there!
Continuing north and coming to the wash, this time I noticed one of those BLM "behave yourselves" signs which are usually a dead give away that there is something they would rather not have you see.
So, we went back down into the wash and found some very unique rock formations and petroglyphs. I've mentioned about "petrodroppings" before in relation to North Valley at Keyhole Rock. These are also the petrified ooze from the bottom of a watercourse adherent to a base rock, but this was a more colorful brown-ocre AND had been polished to a high sheen by another flat rock as it slid past it.
It truly looked as though someone had taken a rock polisher to it then layered it with lacquer. The Toquop Wash Petroglyphs were elevated on a rock in the wash and may deserve explanation in a later post.
Most of my treasured memories of travel are recollections of sitting.” Robert Thomas Allen
Rounding the top (at Abe Spring) and back down to the power lines was uneventful except to say that dad (a former farmer) noticed that nearly all the cows were walking like they had sore feet. You try and walk around on that rock to see what it feels like. Even the river rocks in the wash were like walking on lava clinkers... sharp!
It was a verry long ride for us, and a difficult long step back up into the truck.
One, calls where he currently pauses on his journey — "Home." Another, tries during his life to — "go Home." Discovering that the journey requires going offroad... gratifies the soul.
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