Offroad: Mesquite to Overton Nevada

We've posted before about the offroad trip from Mesquite to Overton touching both the Virgin River and the historic Old Spanish Trail, but the trip is such a yearly tradition it deserves re-gifting.

The first of this month (Jan 2013) Hugh took Gordon and Mary, Jerry and Chellen and Craig and Vicki on the trip and stopped at Sugar's for lunch. Often, because the trail is so dusty and filled with "whoop-de-do's", the wives don't go; but, after the recent rains everyone got out on the rigs.

Press to Read The Rest ...

Offroad: Mormon Mesa-St. Thomas

This ride was a good days outing from Mesquite Nevada in a mini-van around the historic Mormon Mesa and St. Thomas overlook. The ride was 125 miles around some breath-taking overlooks and red rocks with a thousand feet change in altitude. At the time of the ride the dirt roads were dry and fairly well maintained. Lake Mead was still below the historic town of St. Thomas and hiking trails were being well used.

Seeing the Virgin River Valley from the top of Mormon Mesa with Gordon and Hugh wasn't enough for me. Even though they were dirt, the roads seem to look like they'd been scraped in the not to distant past so we decided to try to get the family van up the mesa from the Overton side so Mom and Dad could see it too.   [A free Google Earth file of this route is available at: Offroading Home.]

Press to Read The Rest ...

Offroad: Anniversary-Oar Car Mines

For some reason this year, it has taken nearly everyone a lot longer to "ramp up" for the offroading season in Mesquite – the "oomph" just didn't come easy.

I thought it was just me, but all the locals I know are going through the same thing – a touch of the ol' "lakawanna." It could be the weather, it could be the "been there, done that" syndrome or it could be that pretty much every time we hear of Gold Butte or the Bunkerville Mountains any more it's in the context of some political idiocy.

The weather was cold when we arrived (unusual), got intermittently wet (not enough to do much good), snowed (not really unusual, but early) and completely warmed up (odd) – so perhaps that's it.

With the weather being so capricious, and gas prices being so unearthly high, we didn't want to trailer very far; so, I guess it might be a bit more difficult to get excited seeing the same things over again. However…

Press to Read The Rest ...

On The Butte With 'Desert Walker': A Gold Butte Summer

One of the advantages of posting a blog such as Offroading Home is the opportunity to meet some interesting 'characters.' I was at Kurt's Grotto just after the "fiends of Gold Butte" and BLM idiocy which closed it off, and struck up a conversation with two riders who looked like they knew what they were doing.

When I started to tell them about the maps available on the blog, they already knew all about it and showed me that they had been using them a lot. Since then the two, who use the moniker of 'Desert Walker,' have assisted in verifying tracks and waypoints and every so often send a photo of something they've seen.

When I began receiving photos of the Gold Butte rides they were taking in the middle of the summer, and heard about the 'unique' modifications they've made to their rigs, I then knew that they were indeed characters so decided to 'interview' them via Email, which went pretty much like this:

Press to Read The Rest ...

Ride 27: Davidson Family Graves

It's not that pretty – at least not by Gold Butte standards – but there isn't anywhere more historic or poignant in the whole area than a trip up toward Davidson Peak.   [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Ride 27 - Davidson Family Graves. This map also contains the old wagon trails previously posted.]

On a short day where we just didn't want to haul the trailer very far, Gordon and I took the ride and were still back in time for the block party!

We staged at the Toquop wash trailhead just around the corner from the south exit to Mesquite. The first draw was toward the river which looked high from the recent rains.

Then north all the while looking for a passage up to the mesa on the west so we could avoid that "hateful"…

Press to Read The Rest ...

Mayor and Council and Lobbyists - Oh My!

Riders of the Gold Butte area know that the Mesquite City Mayor and Council generated and passed a resolution in "support" of creating an NCA (Conservation Area) and "Wilderness" designation encompassing nearly the totality of Gold Butte and into Bunkerville Flats! Why would they feel the need to do that?

And, the so-called "Friends" of Gold Butte have made much ado about having the City's backing in their continued attempts to close the butte to offroad use. How does such a group garner such preference?

What many people don't realize is just how tightly the two tendrils are entwined and where the culpability lies; but, what is dawning on life-long residents is just how damaging to the Mesquite experience this bill will be, if implemented. And they are becoming increasingly vocal about it!

Realizing the growing animosity toward their actions, the Mayor and Council announced an agenda item for their last meeting, ostensibly to "discuss" their previous resolution; but, as it turned out, to attempt some "damage control."

This, as a matter of course, gave another opportunity for citizens…

Press to Read The Rest ...

Kokopelli Rides Again

The Kokopelli ATV club master file has just been updated to include their latest ride: The Mesquite to Overton For Lunch Loop. A nifty trip the group took to show that it could be done. In fact there were several trails that have been added as it has been awhile since it was updated.   [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Kokopelli ATV Club Master Map]

Hugh led the group along trails which most seldom remember. That's too bad because it is a ride which is very close to Mesquite (hence can be done without "trailoring") and has the typical amount of scenic value which we've come to expect… and even more than one might think.

And actually, it comes with an added benefit — LUNCH! The loop allows for a ride into the ATV friendly town of Overton where you can shop, patronize the filling stations and restrooms as well as have a meal at a well known diner. [Follow the track! We'll make it a geocache with benefits!]

New Google Earth Map - "Nevada Trails"

It's finally done! After nearly 8 months of Google Gazing (Earth that is, GE) and programming, I've finally published the updated Nevada Trails GE Map over on the official web site, offroading.home.att.net.

That is, the "Western Region" with actual route maps, descriptions and waypoints for over 30 SUV/ATV trails East of about Reno, South of I-15 and North of US-6. There are maps to Ghost Towns, Mining districts, abandoned and active mines, canyons, back-country camping and plenty of scenery.

Press to Read The Rest ...

Interpreting Petroglyphs: Logandale "Hungry Man"

All blog posts need a title, but this one seems a bit pretentious. That is to say: it is what I'm writing about, but pretty much only to say that "no one can do it!"

I've had several requests to describe what I've learned from reading books on the subject. That's what it is, nothing more - except, unless you count the hundred's of hours I've spent riding around with dad looking at them.

I mentioned the "Hungry Man" petroglyph on the Logandale Trail System in a previous post, after having had an extended time to just sit and look at it during a ride. That same glyph does have some more aspects to it that could be mentioned.

Just remember that the authors of rock art are pretty much "gone" so a definitive answer will probably never be known. What is "known," is pretty much educated guesses from using cryptographic methodology and analysis of lots and lots of material. The first rule, if you will, is to: "get a good book."

LaVan Martineau, part Indian, spent 40 years of his life using his knowledge of Indian language, sign language, and the cryptology he learned in the war, to begin unraveling some of the mystery. His book, The Rocks Begin to Speak was recommended to me as a great "starting place." And it has been, so I can recommend it to you.

[It still is in print, available new or used and available on-line at Amazon. If you are going to purchase it, please consider doing so through the above link at no extra cost to you, as a "thank you" to help keep this site going and the trails coming.]

The second rule is that: "there's no substitute for actually being there." You can photograph or draw or describe them; but, there is way too many interrelated aspects needed to do it accurately. The best might be a "rubbing" but that's almost never possible, practical or legal.

Other rules are: How deep they are carved, how they are placed in relation to other glyphs, how they are placed relating to the entire area, the natural features of the rock they are on and even the past social history of the tribe -they all matter. Not just how they are shaped.

A good first understanding of this glyph would, at least, consider the following:

Location: It was located on the end rock, very visible to a traveler, along a major trail through the red rock desert area near the Virgin River, a day or two's journey from "lost city" and other indian settlements, and in a clearly unique and identifiable area which probably was associated with myths and legends.

Associated Symbols: The "6-7 toed foot" is a clan symbol which I know I've seen at the lost city museum but which I can't now remember. I'll need to check next time I'm there. It either marks the territory or identifies the author or characters in the story. They are directly under some other glyphs showing groups on a difficult travel line.   [I did check, it's NOT there, so I still don't know which clan. A "barefoot" sign means "unprotected, vulnerable, or dangerous," but this is clearly NOT a normal barefoot.]

Carving: There are two persons, one slightly larger and more deeply stippled. (Stippling often means water or wet - I'm not sure how it is used here). He is holding an implement, possibly an axe, tomahawk or atlatle, and has a unique head point. That is often used to represent an elder or shaman or a person of some importance. Other actions don't show agression so he is probably hunting.

The smaller person is less deeply carved, does not have the head point, is facing the same direction as the other (so they were probably companions) and is also holding a weapon. Do you see it?

Natural Features: His right hand is drawn to include the natural indentation in the rock which for all intents and purposes looks like a spear. Native writing often uses a rock's natural features to save the fairly difficult labor of chipping the rock. The placement of the hand exactly leaves no doubt that it was intended to end at the indentation. One can even see a small chip at the point of the spear.

Other items: The other items are a bit less distinct which may be so for a reason or because they were placed at another sitting. The smaller animal(?) to the lower left could possibly be the quary, a rabbit(?).

On the other hand, what looks like a rabbit may be a map of the area. Compare it with the Google Earth map of our trail and you see the lower right line going left (like the trail) down to a dead end (like it does at petroglyph 3) and intersecting a broad canyon area runing North (like it does). At the top another trail running down to the left and behind the mountain ridge. Of course, it is attached to the large clan symbol which may indicate the location of the tribes hunting grounds.

Social Situation: It was, however, a common practice for an elder to take a young male into the desert to teach him the skills of a hunter and the lessons of life. It is also common for a boy comming of age to embark on a "vision quest" at the beginning of manhood. The "Atlatle Rock" story in the Valley of Fire visitors center is such a story. This site is just over the ridge from Valley of Fire.

There are two kinds of teachers: the kind that fill you with so much quail shot that you can't move, and the kind that just gives you a little prod behind and you jump to the skies.”
Robert Frost

Possible Story: 1. The tribe referenced earlier had come from a distant place, on a difficult journey which left them hungry. At least a portion of the group was determined (either through decision or physical limitation) to split apart. Capable men and boys of the (?) clan, hunted the area to supply sustenance; or,

2. An elder (or shaman) accompanied a young man into the area to teach him the skills of a hunter. They hunted game (possibly rabbits), made "journal entries" (glyphs) and probably split apart for some time so the young man could demonstrate his "mettle" and recieve his "vision quest."

On the left side of the rock from the "Hungry Man" glyph is this one, placed here so as to be cartographically correct. Notice the spiral going in a counterclockwise direction (meaning downward) and attached to a trail line. If you consider the lower right end of the line to be where the glyph is, it travels upward (the direction of the trail) winding a bit and coming to an empty area (where the fence is today) before turning a bit leftward then continuing into the spiral.

The "going down" symbol is usually merely a spiral but in this case it ends in an enclosed circle with a dot in it (the symbol for water hole). In actuality, from here to the water hole is NOT downward; but, with the water symbol in the middle of the spiral it suggests that it's the water which is actually doing the "going down" (ie a waterfall). To the present day there is a water seep at the back of the canyon flowing down from the rock (petroglyphs 3), which may otherwise be overlooked.

Well, you get the idea. I hope that you get the opportunity, sometime in your life, to visit some of these glyphs and see first hand how you might interpret the story.

Why Not Learn More

The book "The Rocks Begin To Speak" is probably the landmark text which opened this field of study to large numbers of people, and it is still in print, new or used at Amazon. Why not make your trips to the "Glyphs of Gold Butte" more meaningful by learning a few of the "meanings" of the glyphs you see? If you are going to purchase it, please consider doing so using the links on this page. There will be no extra cost to you, but a portion will go to keeping this site going and the trails coming.

Extra Ride 6 - Logandale Trail "A"

There is NO bad day to see petroglyphs. That's what we had to keep reminding ourselves in the unusually warm holiday heat.   [For a free Google Earth file of this route see: Extra 6 - Logandale "Boot"]

It was the holiday weekend and the "campers" were out in droves. I use the term lightly. Calling what we saw "campers" would be like calling dude-ranchers cowboys.

From the Logandale trailhead down into the canyon, nearly every spot and then some was filled with 5th wheelers. Sure there were a few tents, but they were all adjoined to a "mansion" (and most likely were the servants quarters.)

Another oddity: I seemed to be the only one in the canyon riding an ATV, the rest were either "murdercycles" or "side-by-sides." Even Gordon brought his side-by-side. (Where else would his dog ride?)

Gordon has a dog which hid under his truck seat so he couldn't be extricated and left home - I think it wanted to go offroading!

Once in the canyon, however, we didn't see many others, except a kid whose "friends" were lost, and an interesting couple in a side-by-side who didn't have a map so had missed seeing the petroglyphs. We told them where the glyphs were so they could go back and see them.

The ride down the back of "the boot" (Logandale trail "A") was nice. The red cliffs glowed in the sun; but, moving at a brisk pace still kept us cool. At the heel we entered into the sandy wash and the desert climate asserted itself.

At the tip of the "sole" is where we met the couple we told you about. We climbed the first of two "pinch points" which makes the trail just a hair above "beginners" level.

The first set of petroglyphs along the trail were the same as last year (I'm sure much to the chagrin of the fiends of gold butte who love to point out the damage all us nasty offroaders do so they can use it to get the area completely closed off.)

We had a chance, while eating lunch, to analyze a set of petroglyphs in greater detail, and a chance for me to see if I could remember what I've read in all the petroglyph books, especially LaVan Martineau's The Rocks Begin to Speak

The two goats, facing opposite directions, represent groups of people going different directions. One group was smaller than the other and it's legs appear more wavy or weaker. The horns across the back, and relatively long mean a long journey, completed. It's tail is a deliberate square which is the "turning not aside" sign indicating determination.

It's face is oddly mis-shapen which may have a filled rectangle for a mouth. The rectangle is the sign for an "area" or "a place." Empty usually means "gone" - like was filled but now gone. When it's filled in, it means the opposite or "full." Perhaps a smaller number of the group was determined for some reason to remain in the area. At least there seems to have been a parting of the ways.

The person above the goats seems to be at one end of a trail symbol, which is often drawn in the shape of the trail they either already have or are about to take. The interesting thing about this symbol is the rectangle in the area of his stomach. An empty rectangle has the meaning of an "empty area," which with it's location over the stomach must mean "empty belly" or "hunger" etc.

From the "hungry man" petroglyph it wasn't far to the "buckle" of the boot and the protective fence. Petroglyphs 2 are just inside the fence on the North side and appear to be quite jumbled - a sort of "newspaper" rock.

That's what rocks are called around the area which seem to have many authors at various points in time - sort of a "newspaper" to let others know of happenings. I'm told that when families are grown and one leaves that may mean that they are never met again in person. But, having developed a sort of "favorite place," one may be there in march of one year, and another be there in February of another year, yet both can keep track of each other - loosly.

The best petroglyphs are at site 3 in the back of the canyon, a half-mile hike. Photos of the site are contained inside the Google Earth file of today's trail.

I have found out that there ain’t no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them.”
Mark Twain

Today, the sun bounching off the canyon walls increased the temperature substantially. Along with the all the bouncing along the washboards, the heat seemed to do Gordon's dog in - not a happy camper.

The ride up the remainder of the "boot" did cool us off a bit as the sweat dried. All-in-all a good ride - at least for the two of us. The dog is laying in the back seat with all four legs in the air.

Why Not Learn More

The book "The Rocks Begin To Speak" is probably the landmark text which opened this field of study to large numbers of people, and it is still in print, new or used at Amazon. Why not make your trips to the "Glyphs of Gold Butte" more meaningful by learning a few of the "meanings" of the glyphs you see? If you are going to purchase it, please consider doing so using the links on this page. There will be no extra cost to you, but a portion will go to keeping this site going and the trails coming.

Ride 9 - Logandale Trails

What a great place to ride! Just outside of Logandale the state's trail system has been a bit neglected the past few years but has the beauty of Valley of Fire along with designated trails, markers, campgrounds and sites to see. [For a full Google Earth map file see: Ride 9 - Logandale Trails]

There are many trails marked to ride. The most used, and least problematic for off road vehicles, is "Trail A," which is the one we took - sort of. From the Logandale Trails trailhead, we rode down the canyon into the valley.

Trail A is shaped like a "boot" and can be taken in either the clock- or counter-clockwise direction. We chose to branch initially to the right (counter-clockwise) along the trail.

Magnificent cliffs to the left and desert to the right gave an interesting ride. There were restrooms at Basset Campground but we saw no campers. More than half-way down to the heel of the "boot" we took a trail leading into the desert and mountains to the right (West).

We thought that it would circle around and rejoin the trail but it didn't. Instead it led to the cliffs and up a canyon which turned out to be a dead-end. We retraced and took a less used trail back across the desert and came upon what looked like markers for an old archaeological dig. The GPS map was labeled "Silver City." It would be interesting to know what the town was like.

A unique aspect of the stop was that we saw a seldom seen cactus - the Cottontop Barrel Cactus (Echinocactus polycephalus). Named because of the ring of cotton where the blooms once were. These seem to grow where there is a bit more moisture and not necessarily on hill sides like the barrel.

Back on the "A-Trail" we were looking for the "H-Trail" but must have missed the marker. At the heel of the boot we attempted to take the H-Trail in reverse but again missed a turn and ended up in a box ravine which seemed to have more archaeological markers.

Back on the "A-Trail" and half-way down the "sole" a trail ran to the north and we took it into some high red cliffs. Finally it ended in a box canyon filled deep with fine sand dunes.

Back on the "A-Trail" we nearly missed the marker to turn North; but, we didn't. It took some fairly intense navigation to negotiate the steep climb up and over some boulders. Then it was cross desert, North, on fairly washboard, sandy trail.

At the "toe" markers said "L-Trail was straight ahead so we needed to surmise that this was the tip of the boot and we needed to turn West again. It wasn't long before we met the first of three marked petroglyph areas, and found them by the side of the road. They looked quite ancient and worn.

Further along the "buckle" was obvious because of the Park Service markers and barriers. This was the hiking trailhead. Just across the barrier was the second petroglyph which looked quite a bit less worn.

It was a fairly easy hike up over slickrock and boulders to a small dam which, in times of wet, created a holding pond. It was dry now but you could tell it had done its job and the foliage was lush. Continuing up to the end, we were rewarded by the third group of petroglyphs which were extensive and more pristine than all the others before.

Another small stone dam created a watering hole from the seepage in the rocks. The petroglyphs were as good as we've seen, but requires a bit of hiking.

Back on the "A-Trail" we shortly came upon the most difficult stretch of the trail. It was quite steep and required some side to side negotiation which made us glad we chose to go counter-clockwise and could go down instead of up.

The remainder of the trail back to the trailer was uneventful back up through some high, red-walled canyons to the beginning.

This one was a "do-over."